Today´s new and very interesting recipe is olive oil ice cream. Our group, FFWD, has chosen it from Around My French Table, the book by Dorie Greenspan that has us cooking up different things every Friday.
I can eat ice cream anytime of the year. It has nothing to do with the weather; though of course I eat more during hot months; that’s when I go walking to get it or have it as dessert at every dinner and party going on. It’s a no brainer really, ice cream by itself or paired with so many other things and you have an instant dessert.
This recipe proved a bit of a challenge because, though I have an ice-cream maker, it needs a transformer (due to the different voltage we use here) which I seem to have lost at one point. I had a big one which was good for my bread and ice cream machines.
My bread maker ended up at a friend’s house after the initial interest died, and I really don’t know what became of my transformer, a heavy dark thing that was a pain to carry. Probably the reason why I graciously lent it to someone and planned to buy another, smaller one.
That never happened, and now I find myself needing to make ice cream but find I can’t use my good (but not great, it churns decently but not thoroughly) appliance.
I used to make ice creams on a permanent basis, in every flavor I could imagine. I even bought the styrofoam containers and had a huge freezer with enough room for everything. My life and my freezer are different now. So first, I had to make space to store the final cream. It turned out to be the perfect fall cleaning. So many useless bits of dough and bread and I guess one bag had mini muffins and other things that were hard to tell through the ice that was covering it.
The ice cream itself was easy to make and the process quite relaxing. The time I spent whisking eggs and sugar, scalding milk and cream, combining everything, waiting for the mixture to coat the spoon, then adding the olive oil, and my newly bought Maldon salt flakes and vanilla turned out to be fun.
I realized that I could’ve made the effort to go and buy the godamn transformer in time for this recipe, but it was already late afternoon, so I decided to see how things went if I didn’t churn it.
After cooling the mixture over ice cubes, like Dorie says, I put it in the freezer. My idea was to process it twice before it became totally solid. After three hours it was barely a very thick custard, so I stirred it and decided to go to bed, since I wasn’t going to stay up another four hours until it began to solidify. So it went into the processor the next morning, fully frozen. I processed it until it was a cream and put it back in the container and back to the freezer for many hours.
The result is what you see in the picture. It turned out creamy despite the lack of churning. The taste is different, and I liked it a lot. My olive oil is a bit strong, real olive oil, not some faint flavor. And it comes through in the ice cream. The vanilla was a good combination. Not my everyday flavor, this is more of a dessert thing to serve to guests with chocolate sauce. I don´t see myself, spoon in hand, eating this by myself. I was quite certain of it.
The chocolate fudge sauce I had it dog-eared for ages. My usual ice cream flavors are water-based like tangerine, grapefruit, passion fruit, or maybe dark chocolate, and they don’t really go with chocolate sauce. This fudge is the kind that hardens when it comes in contact with the frozen cream, dark, shinny and thick.
The first spoon I ate was nice, but then as I was having another one it started to make sense, the whole olive oil and chocolate combination. I had to talk myself into putting the spoon down and stashing the ice cream back in the freezer. I could’ve kept on eating it a while longer.
This turned out to be one of the most sophisticated desserts I ever made with the maldon salt flakes on top. A recipe to surprise everyone at the table.
adapted from Desserts, by Nancy Silverton
This recipe can easily be halved. Use the best cocoa powder you can afford. It makes a difference.
Makes 4 ½ cups
15 oz. (420g) semisweet chocolate
½ cup granulated sugar
1 cup corn syrup
1 cup + 2 Tbs water
1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 Tbs instant coffee
6 Tbs cognac or brandy
Chop chocolate and melt in heatproof bowl over simmering water. Turn off heat and let stand over warm water until ready to use.
In a large saucepan, combine the sugar, corn syrup, water, cocoa and coffee. Bring to boil over medium heat and boil 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and whisk in melted chocolate.
If it’s too thick to your taste, return to the stove and let boil until reduced to the desired thickness.
Remove from heat and stir in the cognac.
Let cool slightly before using. To reheat place in a bowl over simmering water.
Fudge lasts indefinitely in the refrigerator.