• Don't be intimidated by the double step to make the rice pudding. It's pretty hands-off, but do plan for the amount of time you'll need. You can use store-bought all-butter pie crust instead of making it yourself if short on time.

For the pie crust:

• Combine 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour, ¼ cup sugar and ⅛ teaspoon salt in a large bowl and stir to mix well.
• Scatter 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and in small pieces and integrate with a pastry cutter or your hands until it’s the size of peas and beans, ensuring the mixture remains cool and powdery without becoming pasty.
• Lightly beat 1 large egg and stir it in with a fork. Continue stirring until the dough holds together, then transfer it to a lightly floured surface and gather it several times until it comes together. Knead it briefly until smooth, but don’t overdo it as the more you touch it, the higher the chances the butter will start to melt and the crust will be tough when you bake it. So handle only as needed.
• Shape it into a disk, wrap it in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or unitl firm. At this point, you can keep it refrigerated for up to 3 days.

For the ricotta rice filling:

• Bring 4 cups water to a boil and add ½ cup Arborio or Carnaroli rice, ¼ teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons unsalted butter.
• Stir to prevent the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pan until it boils again. Lower the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes until the rice grains split open and overcook. Drain it.
• Combine the cooked rice, ½ cup sugar and 2 cups milk in a heavy nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer gently, stirring often, until the mixture is thick and creamy, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and cool at least until warm. Stir it often and chill it if needed to speed up the process.
• Place ½ pound whole-milk ricotta in a large bowl. You can pass it through a sieve or strainer or puree it in a food processor if you want it smooth. I normally don’t, but I especially like the rustic texture. You can also mash the rice before mixing it with the rest of the ingredients.
• Mix the ricotta into the rice mixture, followed by 4 large eggs, ½ teaspoon lemon zest, ½ teaspoon orange zest, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon. Set aside while preparing the crust. Cover it to prevent dryness.

To assemble the pie:

• On a floured surface, roll the dough into a large circle about 13 inches in diameter. Fit it into a 9-inch pie pan with removable bottom that is at least 2 inches deep. If you don’t have one, you can use a springform cake pan the same size and have the dough reach halfway or ⅔ up the sides.
• Press the dough well against the bottom and sides of the pan and trim the edges of the dough so they are even with the top of the pan.
• Pour in the filling and spread it evenly.
• Bake for about 40 minutes, until the filling is set but still jiggles in the center, and the dough is a light golden color.
• Cool in the pan on a rack and serve slightly cold or at room temperature. I like to chill it for a few hours before serving, to allow the flavors and textures to settle.
• Store leftover covered in the fridge.